Cinque Terre & La Spezia (March 27-April 4)

Arriving by train to La Spezia later in the evening we found no hostels so we stayed in a hotel for 25 euros each (we were attempting not to go over 20). So, we walked down towards the main town (the hotel was down some stairs from the train so it made it easy) to get to the Internet and find a restaurant. Success on both counts, especially when we stopped in to eat at La Tavernetta. The owner, Fabrizio, helped translate some menu items in English for us - THANKS! The result was a yummy pizza with zucchini. The place had a really warm feeling inside and Fabrizio made us feel at home.

The next morning we bought the Cinque Terre 7-day pass to use the train and walk on the park trails as much as we wanted. It was a good deal because we really used the trains and the main coastal trails. Our walk UP (and I mean UP, talk about gravity wanting to keep you and your bags down) the hill from the train in Manarola to Ostello was a challenge. Again, we were cursing not having a tiny pack. We made it to Ostello hostel for a dorm bed at 18 euros and although we thought it cute there were some issues. First, you have to be out of your rooms by 10am and then out of the hostel completely from 1-4. The last straw was having to be back in by midnight for lockdown (oh and in case you want to leave before 7am, you can't! Not that I would.)

So, we met up with Fabrizio at the hostel and ended up playing board games before going out for dinner in Manarola. I haven't played SORRY! and LIFE in YEARS! At dinner he ordered up some great seafood antipasto - yummy. We didn't know it but we even had anchovies, but in fresh fish version not like I normally see them. And after all that we ended up with seafood pasta as the second piatti. We tried some local Ligurian (the region) white wine and loved it, even better that it came from a bottle with no label. Thanks to Fabrizio for treating us to a wonderful dinner out and ordering everything in Italian so we didn't have to try to translate!

On our way back we met a cool girl, Neva, who was holding out 'til the midnight curfew to return to the hostel! Not a great night of sleep considering two people across from us were snoring, one so loud that my ear plugs didn't do a damn thing! The next morning we tried to check out before 10am but turns out we had to let them know before midnight. So one more night at the prison (don't get me wrong the people were really nice) and we had a great organic homemade pesto here.

From Thursday through Tuesday morning we ended up going back to La Spezia to stay at the hotel room above La Tavernetta, thanks to Fabrizio giving us a great deal for our own room. No snoring unless we did it to ourselves - mostly we just laugh out loud in our sleep. Carrie woke herself up and I woke her up laughing a few times. Crazy huh! At least it must have been good dreams right! Most night we came back to eat dinner at La Tavernetta.

We did the main walk along the coast of the Cinque Terre (Five Fingers or Villages) over a few days of mostly good weather. Riomaggiore to Manarola (Via dell'Amore or Love Trail, oh how romantic right? hee hee)/Manarola to Corniglia/Corniglia to Vernazza/Vernazza to Monterosso. The two toughest walks were the last two portions and the towns are listing from south to north. The Cinque Terre park is a nature sanctuary and UNESCO word environmental and cultural heritage site. The towns are on rocks hidden in steep valleys along the high and jagged coasts overhanging the Mediterranean Sea. The trails follow along the cliffs, through olive groves, wine terraces, and along some incredibly difficult and steep stone stairs and paths. Other paths we didn't get to cover the middle terraces over to the other side. They are known for the white Ligurian wine, fish, crafts, olive oil, lemons and lemon products. We really enjoyed each town and felt that it would be great to come back in a bit warmer weather to enjoy the area more fully. The trains go along all the towns and allowed us to travel back to our room in La Spezia quite easily.

For Carrie's birthday (April 1) we did a mini celebration Friday night at La Tavernetta. They had some lives music, great singing! And, we had some food and finished with a visit from Neva and her friends and finally with some champagne from Fabrizio. Thanks! The night of the 1st we ended up going with Fabrizio and his uncle Giovanni to a club for dancing from 1am to 4am, late one for us but it was a great time. We even went (with Fabrizio's help to translate) to get our hair cut, it felt great after 5 months of growing mine out. It even works pretty well without a hair dryer or any real styling! The main reason I miss the hair dryer is going out in the cold weather with a wet head. My mother always told me that's how you get sick, and I think she was right! No real sickness though but some minor cold symptoms here and there.

It was hard to leave Italy but great to know I would be seeing my friends Pedro and Rebecca, and their little girl Alexandra (6 months old). Oh, and I can't forget the dog Eduardo too. Pedro is working here in Paris so they have a commitment of two years at minimum. The train to Milan, shuttle to Milan Malpenso airport, flight to Paris (CDG), then train and metro to the apartment all went without a problem. Couldn't believe it! And thanks to some nice people I met on the plane I found the right train and metro to get to Pedro's place! I even got a photo on the bridge with the Eiffel Tower behind me! Yahoo!